Imported Soils
If you have used imported topsoils in the preparation of your site for seeding
you may notice inconsistencies in the new growth. Most topsoils on the market
are manufactured products and are nothing more than collected soil from
construction sites amended with anything from sand or peat moss to sawdust,
beauty bark, manure or sludge.
The problem arises when the base soil is mixed with a high percentage of
organic materials (i.e. bark, sawdust etc.) that are not decomposed. These
organic products require a large amount of nitrogen for the microbial activity
of decomposition which in turn leaves very little nitrogen available for the
infant grass plants. The result can be stunted and inconsistent growth,
yellowish color of the grass and, in extreme cases, areas of little or no
growth.
Raw organics need time to break down to a point where they will not tie-up
nitrogen. It may take a few months, maybe even a year. This does not mean it
will take this long to have a beautiful lawn but you will have to fertilize
more frequently (once a month) to compensate for this nitrogen drain. Nitrogen
does not last long in the soil. Every time you water the lawn nitrogen is
flushed through soil. Frequent fertilizer applications, at about one-half the
recommended rate, will help replenish the nitrogen and feed the grass plants.
Shade
While certain grass species are more tolerant of shade than others all
turf-type grasses prefer a sunny site. There are certain steps you can take to
encourage growth in a shady environment. First, try to increase the amount of
light reaching the lawn by thinning or removing existing branches and trees.
Then, adjust your maintenance practices to help your lawn compete with the
remaining trees. Water regularly and deeply so tree roots do not have to reach
to the surface to receive moisture. Mow a little higher to allow more
available leaf surface to catch what light there is. And fertilize sensibly;
overfertilizing is a major problem of grass grown in the shade.
Moss
The presence of moss in your lawn is a result of conditions such as too much
shade, poor drainage and incorrect amounts of fertilizer. On lawns that are
less than one year old we recommend that you rake the affected areas and
fertilize. Lawns that are older than one year can be treated with any of the
products available for moss control as long as the directions are followed.
Either of these options will only be a temporary control. The only way to stop
the growth of moss is to find the cause and correct it (i.e. regrade the area
for proper drainage and/or remove a few tree limbs to allow more light).
Insects and Diseases
By following the general guidelines in this site you should not have any major
problems with insects and disease. However, from time to time problems do
occur. Should you feel you are having problems it is recommended that you
consult a licensed pesticide applicator, experienced in this field, to
diagnose the problem before you spend the money on chemicals that may not be
necessary or appropiate. Crane flies, cutworms, red thread, brown patch, leaf
spot and fairy ring are examples of some of the common problems that can
easily be taken care of when properly diagnosed and treated.
Weeds
Weed seeds permeate most soils by the millions. They find their way into the
soil in many ways: wind, lawn equipment, organic matter. Once in the soil they
wait, dormant, until provided with sufficient conditions to germinate and
grow. The environment being provided to establish your lawn is also optimum
for weed growth. Should you experience weed growth along with the developing
lawn and you wish to eliminate them chemically, we recommend that you contact
a licensed herbicide applicator that can guarantee no adverse affect on the
turf itself. On an established lawn you can eliminate most weeds by mowing at
the right height, fertilizing adequately and watering sensibly. A healthy lawn
is not troubled much by weeds.
